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Christopher Carosa: Misconceptions about birth of hamburger, which likely was first sold here in Hamburg

One of the most challenging aspects of this work has been to determine when we first began to define “hamburger” as a sandwich distinct from a similarly prepared entree served on a plate called a “Hamburg steak.” To confuse matters further, at least according to an 1883 New York Sun article, some folks in New York City decided to call Hamburg steaks “hamburgers.” See how easy it is to get confused? Unless you dig down into the story, and read it within the context of other newspaper articles of that era, a researcher can be tricked into making false conclusions. The 1883 New York Sun article begins with this sentence: “Give me six Hamburgers, four chops, half a pound of sliced ham, and five cents’ worth of pickles.” In today’s language, it sounds like someone is ordering fast food burgers – sandwiches – in addition to the usual deli fare. You might think this, but you’d be wrong. The article includes this line that states the lunch counter is not selling sandwiches: “Those flat, brown meat cakes on that dish there are Hamburg steaks; the people call them ‘Hamburgers.’” Furthermore, the article is not referring to anything resembling a sandwich, because it says: “A nice meat lunch for 5 or 10 cents is an attraction, and is better than bringing a sandwich in one’s pocket.” Further confusing matters are the many recipes for “Hamburg steaks” that dotted both books and newspapers. In August 1885, the Buffalo Express published a recipe for Hamburg steak that first appeared in the Philadelphia Caterer. Similar recipes appear earlier in other papers and in several cookbooks (including, ironically, the cookbook referenced by John C. Kunzog in his book Tambark and Tinsel where the Menches brothers/Erie County Fair hamburger origin is detailed). These recipes reference “Hamburg steak,” which is served on a plate with gravy, sometimes with bread, but not in sandwich form. “Hamburg steak” (aka “Salisbury steak”) would not be considered a “hamburger” sandwich by any contemporaries of the 1880s and 1890s.

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